We finished hiking in mid-afternoon and there was one more thing I wanted to see. I'd read about the broken-down Ponce de Leon hot springs south of Taos and I wanted to see them. Reviews were mixed. One said the trail to it was closed. Another said the springs were silted in and choked with cattails and probably hadn't been used in years. But other reviews said it was a wonderful, secluded little spot and showed photos of beautiful, clear pools--the remains of what once was a small resort built in the 1920's and abandoned in the 1960's.
It took a bit of looking, but we found a rough parking lot at the top of a narrow dirt road. It was full of broken glass and the road across the way was barred with a metal gate. Signs next to the gate indicated that the trail and springs were closed to vehicle traffic and were being managed by the Taos Pueblo Indian tribe. The signs were all shot up. It was an easy mile hike down to the springs and we had to go through a couple of gates.
When we got there we were greeted by a large silted-in pool filled with cattails just like the one-star review stated. No swimming to be done here! Too bad. It looked like a really nice pool at one time.
But a short hike up the hill and around some willows revealed the hidden spring. Apparently our one-star reviewer was not a very ambitious explorer. I dipped a finger in the water, expecting it to be too cool to tempt us in on such a cold day.
But I was pleasantly surprised! The water was not hot, but it felt wonderfully warm compared to the chilly air. The sun came from behind a cloud, showing wisps of steam hovering over the surface. Phil and I changed into our swimsuits and jumped in. It was not deep--only about 3 feet--but it was a delicious temperature on a 50-degree afternoon.
The goats had carried our swimsuits and towels down for us, but they had no desire to try the water for themselves (and it would have been bad manners to allow goats in the pool even if they wanted a dip). I tied them to a willow tree along the bank and they kept themselves very amused by trimming the foliage.
The water was some of the clearest I have ever seen. There was no sulfur smell--only pure, delicious, crystal-clear spring water running over a sand and gravel bottom through which you could feel the heat radiating up between your toes. It was good enough to drink, and Phil and I both had a sip from the cataract that tumbled into the pool.
Getting in was wonderful, but getting out was cold! We waited until the sun peeked from behind the clouds for a few minutes, and then hurried over to our towels and into our dry clothes. Finn got to carry my wet swimsuit back to the truck. I'm glad no one else was at the springs because I really didn't want to hike back in my wet bathing suit, and there was nowhere convenient to change clothes except right by the side of the pool. I'm just not one of those "clothing optional" people even though this is a "clothing optional" pool.
I hope Ponce de Leon Springs is never "rediscovered" because it's a gorgeous little gem just as it is. It provided the perfect end to a wonderful day.
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