General care and pack goat maintenance. All welcome to post

[Dave-Trinity-Farms]

Howdy friends,

I am going to be removing the forum page from my website and replacing it with a full how to care for your pack goat page. I have short list of some of the things I am going to cover but would really like to put as complete a how to together as possible. As everyone knows, there are two sides to every goat topic and thats kinda what I am looking for. I want to be able to say "you can feed from this to this. Here is the norm and here is what I suggest"
This will give new owners and those who are thinking about it an idea of what its going to take to raise their own pack goats.

Here are some general topics I have put together off the top of my head.

Feed (Grass to alfalfa, grains to pellets...)
Supplements (things like mineral mixs, AC...)
Vaccines (cd/t, bo-se...)
Fencing (field to hot wire...)
Medical care (castration, pizzle(?) removal, dis budding...)

So please feel free to weight in and explain what you do or suggest. Thanks

HOW TO CARE page can be viewed here: http://trinitypackgoats.webs.com/howtopackgoatcare.htm

[Curtis King]

Howdy friends,

I am going to be removing the forum page from my website and replacing it with a full how to care for your pack goat page. I have short list of some of the things I am going to cover but would really like to put as complete a how to together as possible. As everyone knows, there are two sides to every goat topic and thats kinda what I am looking for. I want to be able to say "you can feed from this to this. Here is the norm and here is what I suggest"
This will give new owners and those who are thinking about it an idea of what its going to take to raise their own pack goats.

Here are some general topics I have put together off the top of my head.

Feed (Grass to alfalfa, grains to pellets...)
Supplements (things like mineral mixs, AC...)
Vaccines (cd/t, bo-se...)
Fencing (field to hot wire...)
Medical care (castration, pizzle(?) removal, dis budding...)

So please feel free to weight in and explain what you do or suggest. Thanks

---

This is a great idea Dave. Plus it like having an experienced go to person at your fingertips. I like it a lot and I appreciate you and Tracy sharing all your goat knowledge with us. Thank you.

"Long Live The Pack Goat"
Curtis King

[Dave-Trinity-Farms]

Howdy Curtis! Long time no chat. Have some good news. We are starting to look at houses in Burbank. We are tired of this dry dusty area and want to get a place with some nice pasture area and water rights. Spent a few hours today driving all the roads looking for for sale signs. Only found 2 houses that would kinda fit the bill. Also considering a 5-10 acre lot and putting a house on it. But dang I think I am to old to build another barn

[Charlie Horse]

I've about given up on finding the right place. I want something with lots of land and water rights, but a small house. The problem is banks want to loan on houses, not land, and they want the house to be worth more than the land. Plus you cant finance prefabs etc, and the maximum acreage is 10. Its just impossible to do it unless one comes up with cash, and if your property ends up the type that cant be financed, then it is worth less in the end. The banking system's rules are essentially forcing people to build McMansions. Jeez, I'd be happy enough to have 20 acres of pasture and trees and live in my yurt!

I heard an ad on the radio for a 50x100 General Steel building for 35K. That may or may not include the footings, but wow. Dont bother building your own barn.

[Dave-Trinity-Farms]

I built this last barn and did a pretty good job on the price. 30x36 with 2 (one on each side) enclosed 8x24 foot lean toos. The inner area has a concrete floor. I flipped the 2x6 backer boards so I could put in normal 6" insulation. Its drywalled. Wired throughout including washer/dryer hook ups. Furnace, lights and plugs. Has a drain field for the sinks. Hot water heater. So all the comforts of a home cept no bathroom . Finished in metal siding. Altogether it only cost me 14K to build.

The second house we looked found is an bit older cinder block house with an add on. But the cool thing was the bar. It has a loft 2 bedroom apt above it

[Dave-Trinity-Farms]

Here is the first part of the how to page. If anyone can think of anything I might of missed thats important, please feel free to say so.

Feed and the 2:1 Ratio

There are many options and opinions in the goat world about what is the best feed for goats. For this section I will focus on what is best for wethers (castrated male goats). As feed is the most important, aspect of goat herdsmenship, I will spend more time and provide more information then other areas.

When choosing whats best to feed your pack goat wether, there are many things to consider. The most important is how that feed plays into the standard 2:1 diet ratio. The 2:1 ratio is calcium vs phosphorus. The undisputed ideal 2:1 ratio, should be followed as close as possible. It is widely thought that the higher the imbalance of this ratio, the greater the likely hood a wethered goat will develop URINARY CALCULI (urinary stones or UC for short). Below is a generalized analysis of some of the different kinds of hay and grain one can feed their pack goat.

::::::: FEED ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::CALCIUM (%) ::::::::::::::::::::::: PHOSPHORUS (%)

Alfalfa hay, (midbloom)_________ 1.24 _______________________ 0.22
Bermuda hay, 29-42 days________0,30 _______________________ 0.19
Oat Hay_____________________0.29 _______________________ 0.23
Orchardgrass hay, early_________ 0.24 _______________________ 0.30
Timothy hay, midbloom_________ 0.43 _______________________ 0.20

Barley grain__________________0.05 _______________________ 0.34
Beet pulp, dehydrated___________ 0.62 _______________________ 0.09
Corn grain___________________0.05 _______________________ 0.27
Oat grain____________________0.05 _______________________ 0.34
Riuce bran___________________0.09 _______________________ 1.5

Keep in mind, this is a general analysis and should be used only as a guideline. But as you can see, its nearly impossible to find a hay that falls into the ideal ratio. Grass hays come closer, which is to be expected. But grass hays are low in protein, vitamins and minerals. Of all the feed choices listed, Alfalfa is by far the best in terms of nutritional value with average protein levels between 16% and 24%. Alfalfa also has the highest calcium level. Two very important factors when growing young pack goats or maintaining the condition of hard working goats. The main problem with alfalfa is the ratio imbalance. And with the higher protein and nutrients, its quite easy to over feed and make your goat fat if he/she is not working hard enough to burn off the extra calories. There is also a difference in the amount you feed grass hay vs. alfalfa hay. Grass hay can be fed free choice. Meaning, as much as they can eat. Alfalfa should be limited to one good sized flake per adult goat per day. Possibly less if they have free choice access to a good quality browse. Regardless of what hay you decide to feed your goats, it is important that it be a high quality hay. I cant stress this enough. If you settle for crap hay, expect a crap goat.

My Personal Opinion and Thoughts:

The majority of a goats growth is done between birth and 3 years of age. From the time a baby can start eating hay (around the 3-4 week mark) I believe they should have a good quality alfalfa in front of them. (NOTE: It is suggested that instead of presenting kids with hay at first you should use grain instead as it easier on their system. Its easier to digest and conditions their rumin better). You will maximize your goats growth and condition with alfalfa. The higher calcium will actually benefit in bone growth. The higher protein, nutrients, minerals and vitamins will all aid in all areas of development. I believe alfalfa should be feed until the kid is around one year old. At this point I would switch over to a 50/50 grass/alfalfa mix. I would feed this grass/alfalfa mix for the next two years. Then at the age of three I would evaluate their growth and condition, how hard and how often they are working (packing). With most of their growth done, its at this time I would possibly change over to a straight grass hay. I would also most likely feed a grass/alfalfa mix during the winter months to help maintain condition. Many pack goat owners would disagree with this and suggest grass hay either from the start or much sooner because of the imbalance in the 2:1 ratio and the fear of UC. I counter the imbalance with supplements and the use of AMMONIUM CHLORIDE. Both of which will be covered below.

[IdahoNancy]

Thanks Dave. That is real nice summary

[Dave-Trinity-Farms]

Thanks Nancy. I was going to past the rest that I have so far but I am terribly long winded so ill just post a link to the page for easier reading. Dont mind the typos, its a rough draft

http://trinitypackgoats.webs.com/howtopackgoatcare.htm

[Dave-Trinity-Farms]

Kinda off subject but kinda not. The new alfalfa is doing its job. Everyone is starting to slick and fill out. The yearling does and prospects look fantastic!

[joecool911]

Are supplements regional? Different soil produces hay with different nutrients. So is your stuff good for everywhere you just your locale.